Kikunoi Honten

Kikunoi is one of the best-known names in Kyoto cuisine. The family-run ryotei, a traditional restaurant serving kaiseki in private rooms, was founded in 1912, and its head, Yoshihiro Murata, has spent decades promoting Japanese cooking abroad, writing about kaiseki and welcoming trainee chefs from other countries to learn its methods and service traditions. The Honten, the original restaurant, sits on a quiet slope in Higashiyama, a short walk from Maruyama Park and Kodai-ji, and has held three stars in the Michelin Guide for many years, including in the 2026 selection.

A meal here is a seasonal kaiseki course, a sequence of small dishes that follows the calendar closely, from the opening appetiser and a clear soup to sashimi, grilled fish, a simmered dish, rice with pickles and a dessert. The menu changes month by month, and the presentation, on carefully chosen ceramics and lacquerware, is part of the experience. Murata is known for occasionally bringing Western ingredients into the traditional framework, but the foundation is classic Kyoto cooking built on dashi and peak-season produce.

Most guests are seated in private tatami rooms looking onto small gardens, and shoes are removed at the entrance. Lunch and dinner are served at set start times, and booking well in advance is essential; reservations are handled directly by each Kikunoi restaurant through its own booking page. Tell the restaurant about allergies or dietary needs when you book, as menus are prepared in advance. Smart dress is appropriate, and it is considerate to avoid strong perfume, which interferes with the food.

Kikunoi is suited to special occasions and to anyone wanting to understand what Kyoto's haute cuisine is about. The price is at the top of the range, and lunch is the more affordable way to experience it. A full meal takes two to three hours, so do not book anything tight afterwards. Those who sit on the floor with difficulty should mention this when reserving.

The restaurant is reached by taxi or on foot from Gion: from Yasaka Shrine, walk through Maruyama Park and south towards Kodai-ji. From Keihan Gion-Shijo Station it is a pleasant walk through Gion. The company also runs Kikunoi Roan in the Kiyamachi area, a smaller counter restaurant, and a branch in Tokyo's Akasaka.