Nanzenji Junsei

Yudofu, cubes of tofu gently simmered in a pot of kombu broth and dipped in a soy-based sauce, is one of Kyoto's most characteristic dishes, and the streets around Nanzen-ji have been known for it for generations, partly because of the area's links with Zen vegetarian cooking. Nanzenji Junsei is one of the best-known restaurants serving it, set in spacious garden grounds a few minutes from the temple.

The menu is built around tofu. Yudofu comes as part of set meals, with options such as a seasonal yudofu set and a yudofu kaiseki course that adds a series of small dishes. Expect accompaniments such as yuba, the delicate skin that forms on heated soy milk, dengaku tofu grilled with sweet miso, tempura and rice. The restaurant also offers shabu-shabu for those who want meat. Courses are named Hana, Tsuki and Yuki, and the menus change with the seasons, so this is a good place to try several forms of tofu in one meal.

Lunch is served from 11:00, with last orders at 14:30, and dinner from 17:00, with last orders at 19:00. There is no fixed closing day, but the restaurant has irregular closures, so check its website or call before going, particularly in the busy cherry blossom and autumn leaf seasons. Expect queues at lunchtime in peak periods. Allow at least an hour for a meal, longer if you want to walk in the garden.

Junsei is a good choice for vegetarians, although broths and sauces may contain fish stock, so ask the staff if you avoid all animal products. It also suits families and anyone wanting a light, traditional lunch between temple visits. The mid-range courses cost more than a simple noodle lunch but far less than a full kaiseki meal at one of the city's ryotei.

The restaurant is about five minutes' walk from Exit 2 of Keage Station on the Tozai subway line, or around ten minutes from the Nanzenji Eikando-michi bus stop on city bus route 5. There is no car park, and nearby roads become very congested in the tourist seasons. After lunch, walk to Nanzen-ji and its aqueduct, then follow the Philosopher's Path north towards Ginkaku-ji, or head west to Heian Shrine and the Okazaki museums.