Chez Janou

Chez Janou is a Provençal bistro on the corner of Rue Roger Verlomme, a few minutes' walk from the Place des Vosges in the Marais. With its old tiled floor, posters, wooden chairs and a pavement terrace, it has the feel of a southern French village restaurant transplanted to Paris, and it has long been a favourite with locals and visitors staying in the area.

The cooking draws on Provence and the south: dishes such as ratatouille, tapenade, aubergine caviar, grilled lamb, duck, fish with olive oil and herbs, and daily specials chalked up on boards. The bar is known for its long list of pastis, the aniseed aperitif of Marseille, which most diners try at least once. The dessert most people remember is the chocolate mousse, brought to the table in a large bowl so that you help yourself. Portions are generous and the prices are moderate for the location.

The restaurant suits groups of friends, couples who do not mind a lively room, and anyone wanting a relaxed, sociable meal rather than a formal dinner. It serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. Tables are close together and the noise level rises through the evening, which is part of the appeal. The terrace is especially popular on warm evenings and fills first.

Booking is recommended for dinner and weekend lunches, and the phone number is on the restaurant's website. If you arrive without a reservation, early evening or late lunch is the best time to try your luck. Allow about an hour and a half for a full meal with an aperitif. Vegetarians will find a few starters and vegetable dishes, but the menu leans towards meat and fish.

Chemin Vert station on metro line 8 is about three minutes' walk away, and Bastille on lines 1, 5 and 8 is a little further. The Place des Vosges, the Maison de Victor Hugo and the Hôtel de Sully are just around the corner, so Chez Janou works well after an afternoon exploring the Marais, or before a drink in the bars around Bastille and Rue de la Roquette.