Attraction
Sacsayhuamán
The great Inca complex on the hill above Cusco, famed for zigzag terrace walls of huge, precisely fitted stones and a plaza still used for Inti…
A living Inca town in the Sacred Valley with a terraced temple hill, the Wall of the Six Monoliths and streets still laid out on the original grid.
Good to know
Ollantaytambo is one of the few places where you can walk through an Inca town that is still lived in. It lies in the Sacred Valley at about 2,792 metres, roughly 72 kilometres north-west of Cusco by road, and trains to Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu, run from here. Around the middle of the 15th century the emperor Pachacuti conquered and razed an earlier settlement here and rebuilt it as part of his personal estate, with lodgings for the nobility and terraces worked by retainers.
The town also played a part in the fight against the Spanish. Manco Inca used Ollantaytambo as a temporary capital and stronghold, and in 1537 he defeated a Spanish expedition on the plain of Mascabamba nearby before withdrawing to Vilcabamba the following year.
The main sight is the steep Temple Hill west of the town, often called the fortress, although the site was mainly religious. Terraces known as the Pumatallis climb the slope, and at the top is the unfinished Sun Temple with the Wall of the Six Monoliths, made of enormous fitted stones. Below and around the hill, terraces spread across the Urubamba and Patakancha valleys. North of the town, the sanctuaries of Araqhama include carved rocks, water channels and the fountain known as the Baño de la Ñusta. On the hills opposite you can make out Inca storehouses, or qullqas.
Do not leave without exploring the old town itself. Its streets follow an orthogonal grid of four long streets crossed by seven parallel ones, and in the southern half each block contains two kanchas, walled compounds of four single-room buildings around a shared courtyard. Several are still lived in, and the narrow lanes with stone water channels give a strong sense of how an Inca settlement worked.
The temple hill involves many steps, so pace yourself and bring water. Sacred Valley day trips from Cusco often combine it with Pisac and Moray. If you are taking the train on to Machu Picchu, staying a night here gives you time to see the ruins and the town without rushing. Inca roads once linked Ollantaytambo with Machu Picchu to the west.
About 72 kilometres north-west of Cusco by road, in the Sacred Valley.
About 2,792 metres, lower than Cusco.
The emperor Pachacuti rebuilt it as part of his personal estate in the mid-15th century.
Part of the unfinished Sun Temple at the top of Temple Hill, made of huge fitted stones.
It is often called one, but the hill was mainly a religious centre, although Manco Inca defeated a Spanish force nearby in 1537.
Yes, the old town keeps its Inca grid and walled kanchas, several of which are still homes.
Yes, trains to Aguas Calientes for Machu Picchu run from Ollantaytambo, so it makes a convenient overnight stop.
The temple hill has many steep steps, so take your time and carry water.
Tour operator
A Cusco-based adventure company running the Inca Trail, Salkantay, Lares and Rainbow Mountain trips, with ISO certifications and community projects since 2013.
Café
A women-led specialty café in a restored colonial house near the Plaza de Armas, buying from women coffee growers and listed among the world's 100 best…
Thing to do
The Inca citadel on a ridge above the Urubamba, about 80 km from Cusco, visited on one of three official circuits reached by train and bus…
Restaurant
Virgilio Martínez's restaurant and research centre beside the Moray terraces, serving a lunch tasting menu of Andean ingredients at around 3,600 metres.