Moray

Moray is one of the most unusual Inca sites in the Cusco region. Just west of the village of Maras, about 50 kilometres north-west of Cusco and at around 3,500 metres, a series of natural depressions has been shaped into rings of stone-faced terraces that step down like an amphitheatre. The largest is about 30 metres deep, and from the rim the concentric circles look almost geometric against the farmland of the high plateau.

What the Inca used it for is still debated, which is part of the appeal. The most widely held view is that Moray was agricultural. Because the terraces drop so far, they create a series of microclimates, with a temperature difference of up to 15 degrees Celsius between the top and the bottom, much like a modern greenhouse. Soil is said to have been brought in from different regions for the various levels, which supports the idea that the Inca used the site to test how crops behaved in different conditions. Another theory suggests the depressions began as something like open-pit mining before they were reinforced and farmed.

The site is owned by the Peruvian state and managed by the Ministry of Culture. It has suffered from the weather: in February 2010 heavy rains brought down part of the eastern side of the main circle, and repair work has continued since, with funding and rainfall both cited as obstacles. Follow the marked circuit and respect any closed areas, which help protect the terraces.

A visit here is mostly about the views and the shape of the place, so it does not take long, and it fits neatly into a day in the Sacred Valley. The salt pans of Maras lie in a canyon north of the same village, so the two fit easily into one outing.

The plateau is exposed, so bring sun protection, a warm layer and water; the high sun and wind can catch people out. If you are interested in how the Inca managed their environment, seeing Moray alongside the terraces of Pisac and Ollantaytambo gives a clear picture of how much engineering went into farming the Andes.