Plaza de Armas

The Plaza de Armas is the heart of Cusco today, just as it was the ceremonial centre of the Inca capital. In Inca times it was known as Huacaypata, often translated as the place of weeping, or Aucaypata, the place of the warrior; the adjoining sector, Cusipata, survives as the Plaza Regocijo. The ground was once a marsh crossed by the Saphy river, and Inca tradition holds that Pachacútec had it covered with sand brought from the coast. Victories were celebrated here, markets were held and the great festivals were staged.

After the conquest the Spanish moved into the Inca palaces around the square and built churches and mansions on top of them. The sand was removed in 1545 to help build the cathedral. The square later became a place of execution: Túpac Amaru II, leader of the great indigenous rebellion, was put to death here in 1781, and independence figures such as Mateo Pumacahua also died here.

The buildings around the edge tell the story of that layering. The Cathedral stands on the site of the Inca Suntur Wasi, the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús on Amaru Cancha, and the arcaded Portal de Harinas, Portal de Carrizos and Portal de Panes rise over former Inca palaces and the house of the chosen women, the Acllawasi. Most buildings keep some Inca stonework in their foundations, even though the colonial style dominates what you see.

The plaza is still where Cusco gathers. Inti Raymi, Corpus Christi, Holy Week, the city's own fiestas, national holidays and New Year are all celebrated here, alongside parades, free concerts and the occasional political rally. On a quiet day it is a pleasant place to sit and watch the city go by, and the arcades are lined with restaurants, jewellers, travel agencies and souvenir shops.

The square is part of the Monumental Zone of Cusco declared in 1972 and of the historic centre inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. It costs nothing to visit and works as the starting point for almost every walk in the city: Qorikancha is downhill, San Blas and the Twelve-Angled Stone are a few minutes uphill, and the path to Sacsayhuamán climbs from nearby streets. With shops and travel agencies all around, it is also the easiest place to book trips, but keep an eye on your belongings when it is crowded during festivals.