Restaurant
Tuju
Ivan Ralston's seasonal tasting-menu restaurant, one of the first two in Brazil to win three Michelin stars, with menus that change four times a year.
Rodrigo Oliveira's restaurant on the ground floor of the Instituto Moreira Salles, mixing Brazil's regional food cultures with Mocotó classics on Avenida Paulista.
Good to know
Balaio IMS is the restaurant of chef Rodrigo Oliveira of Mocotó, on the ground floor of the Instituto Moreira Salles cultural centre on Avenida Paulista. It gives visitors who cannot make the trip to Mocotó's original home in the north zone a central place to try his cooking, and it holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for good value. Oliveira has run Mocotó for more than 20 years and appeared on the 50 Best Latin America chef rankings in 2024.
The restaurant describes its food as sertaneja, the cooking of Brazil's backcountry, mixed with the country's different culinary cultures, with an emphasis on inclusivity and a fresh look at Brazilian dishes. Highlights on the menu include carne de sol made with pork, served with a creamy baião and red onion, and a caipira lasagne with pasta made from kale, fresh ricotta, pumpkin béchamel and Brazilian cheeses. Mocotó's dadinhos de tapioca are on the menu too. There are vegetarian, vegan and dessert options, and the bar mixes cocktails such as a pequi drink with gin, pequi cream, passion fruit, pineapple and elderflower liqueur.
Lunch is served from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:30 to 16:00 on weekdays and 12:00 to 16:00 on Saturday, with Sunday lunch running until 17:00. On Friday and Saturday evenings the restaurant also opens for dinner from 19:00 to 22:00. Separately, the Balaio Café on the fifth floor of the institute is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 20:00 for coffee and lighter meals. Reservations can be made online or by email at [email protected], which is a good idea at weekend lunchtimes.
The setting adds to the appeal. The Instituto Moreira Salles is a cultural centre, so a meal here is easy to combine with an exhibition, and it is on the same avenue as MASP, the Conjunto Nacional and Casa das Rosas. On Sundays, when Avenida Paulista is closed to traffic, lunch here makes a good stop during a walk along the avenue.
Balaio IMS suits families, groups and solo travellers who want proper Brazilian cooking at moderate prices in a central location. It is also a sensible choice for vegetarians and vegans, who have dedicated options on the menu.
Chef Rodrigo Oliveira, best known for the Mocotó restaurant in Vila Medeiros.
On the ground floor of the Instituto Moreira Salles at Avenida Paulista 2424.
Lunch from Tuesday to Sunday, plus dinner from 19:00 to 22:00 on Friday and Saturday.
Pork carne de sol with creamy baião, the caipira lasagne and the dadinhos de tapioca.
Yes. The menu includes vegetarian and vegan dishes.
Online through the restaurant's booking link or by email at [email protected].
Yes. Balaio Café on the fifth floor opens Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 20:00.
Yes. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for good value.
Café
Isabela Raposeiras's specialty coffee café, roastery and barista school in Vila Madalena, focused on traceable microlots from named producers.
Attraction
São Paulo's best-known art museum, raised above Avenida Paulista on Lina Bo Bardi's suspended concrete structure and holding more than 8,000 works from Raphael to Portinari.
Thing to do
The city's grand 1933 food market, designed by Ramos de Azevedo's office, with stained-glass windows, more than 290 stalls and a mezzanine of restaurants.
Hotel
A luxury hotel in the restored Matarazzo maternity hospital and a new vertical-garden tower near Avenida Paulista, with 160 rooms and suites and around 450 commissioned…