Mercado Municipal de São Paulo (Mercadão)

The Mercado Municipal, known to everyone as the Mercadão, is the place to start if you want to understand how São Paulo eats. The building was designed by the office of Francisco Ramos de Azevedo, the architect behind the Theatro Municipal and the Pinacoteca, with plans dated 1926. Construction began in 1928 and the market opened on 25 January 1933 on the old Várzea do Carmo floodplain, near the Tamanduateí river and the Parque Dom Pedro II.

The hall is a sight in its own right. Look up at the stained glass: 72 pieces arranged in 32 panels made by Conrado Sorgenicht Filho and his studio, showing scenes of food production around São Paulo. The market covers about 12,600 square metres and has more than 290 stalls selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, cured meats, spices, seasonings, wine and dried and candied fruit, among much else. In the 1960s, when wholesale trade moved to the new Ceasa distribution centre, business fell sharply and demolition was even considered, but traders and supporters saved the building and it was listed by the state heritage body Condephaat, which helped fund its restoration.

Most visitors come for the food. The market is famous for its mortadella sandwich, its giant pastel and its bolinhos de bacalhau, and a mezzanine of around 2,000 square metres with eight restaurants was added in 2004. Eating on the mezzanine is the easiest way to sit down and take in the stained glass at the same time. Beyond the famous snacks, stalls sell lobster, ice cream, fine cheeses and hams, so the market is also a good place to put together a picnic for a day in Parque Ibirapuera.

Opening times published online come from unofficial sources, so check before making a special trip. The market has its own parking, and there are private car parks nearby. Allow an hour to walk the aisles and another to eat.

The Mercadão fits easily into a day in the historic centre. The Mosteiro de São Bento, the Farol Santander and the Catedral da Sé are all in the surrounding historic centre. As in any busy market, keep an eye on bags and phones. It suits food lovers, families and anyone wanting a taste of everyday São Paulo life.