Tenryu-ji

Tenryu-ji is the largest temple in Arashiyama and the head temple of its own branch of Rinzai Zen. The shogun Ashikaga Takauji founded it in 1339 to honour the memory of Emperor Go-Daigo, and the Zen master Muso Soseki was its first chief priest. It ranked first among Kyoto's five great Zen temples, but fire and war destroyed its buildings many times, so most of what stands today dates from the late Meiji period or later. In 1994 it was listed as part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.

The reason to come is the garden. Muso Soseki designed the strolling garden around Sogen Pond, west of the abbot's quarters, and it has survived far better than the buildings. Rocks, an arrangement of stones suggesting a waterfall and clipped shrubs frame the water, and the wooded hills of Arashiyama behind are used as borrowed scenery. It was the first site designated by the Japanese government as a Historic Site and Place of Special Scenic Beauty. The garden is attractive in every season, with cherry blossom in spring and maples in autumn.

Inside the temple, the Hatto, or Dharma Hall, has a ceiling painting of a cloud dragon by the artist Shonen Suzuki, which appears to follow you as you walk around it. The Hatto has its own ticket and opening days, as do the abbot's quarters, so check the temple's website if these interiors are a priority. Shigetsu, the temple's restaurant, serves shojin ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cooking, within the grounds.

A visit to the garden takes about 45 minutes, longer if you go inside the buildings. Arashiyama is one of the most crowded parts of Kyoto, so aim to arrive at opening time. Paths in the garden are mostly gentle, but there are some slopes and steps up the hillside to the north. The temple office is open from 8:30 to 17:00, and the temple's own website lists current visiting hours and fees.

Tenryu-ji is a short walk from Randen Arashiyama Station and about ten minutes from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. The north gate opens directly onto the Arashiyama bamboo grove, so you can walk through the garden and continue into the bamboo, then on to Okochi Sanso villa or down to the Togetsukyo Bridge on the Katsura River.