Thing to do
Napoli Sotterranea
Guided walk 40 metres beneath the old town through Greek and Roman cisterns, Second World War shelters and the hidden remains of a Roman theatre.
Opened in 1737, the oldest continuously active opera house in the world, with a red and gold auditorium, daily guided tours and a full season of opera and ballet.
Good to know
The Teatro di San Carlo was inaugurated on 4 November 1737, the name day of King Charles of Bourbon, who commissioned it next to his Royal Palace. Designed by Giovanni Antonio Medrano, it predates La Scala in Milan and La Fenice in Venice, and it is the oldest opera house in the world to have staged performances without interruption. After a fire in February 1816 the impresario Domenico Barbaja and the architect Antonio Niccolini rebuilt it in about ten months, reopening in January 1817. It was repaired after bomb damage in 1943 and restored again before reopening in 2010.
In the 19th century the San Carlo was one of the most important houses in Europe. Rossini and Donizetti directed seasons here, and the theatre staged the premieres of operas including Rossini's Otello and La donna del lago, Donizetti's Lucia di Lammermoor and Roberto Devereux and Verdi's Luisa Miller. The auditorium, with tiers of boxes in red and gold, the royal box and a painted ceiling by Giuseppe Cammarano, seats about 1,386 people. The theatre also has a ballet school founded in 1812.
There are two ways to experience it. Watching an opera, ballet or concert is the obvious choice; the season runs through most of the year, and the box office and the official website list programmes and prices. Dress smartly for evening performances, particularly at premieres. If you cannot fit in a show, daily guided tours visit the historic auditorium, the royal stage area and the foyer, and include the MeMUS museum and archive. The official tourism site lists the theatre's opening hours as 10.30 to 16.30, until 17.00 on Fridays, and notes that tour routes can change or be cancelled at short notice because of rehearsals.
A tour suits most visitors, including older children; a full performance is best for those who already enjoy opera or ballet. Booking ahead is advisable for popular productions.
The theatre stands between Piazza del Plebiscito and Piazza Trieste e Trento, with the Royal Palace on one side and Galleria Umberto I across the road. Gran Caffè Gambrinus is a two-minute walk away for a coffee before or after, and Municipio and Toledo stations on metro Line 1 are close by.
It opened on 4 November 1737 and was rebuilt after a fire in 1816, reopening in January 1817.
Yes, daily guided tours visit the auditorium, royal stage area and foyer, plus the MeMUS museum.
Yes, routes may change or tours may be cancelled at short notice because of theatre activity.
The auditorium seats about 1,386 people.
Smart dress is expected for evening performances, especially premieres.
Among others, Rossini's Otello and La donna del lago, Donizetti's Lucia di Lammermoor and Verdi's Luisa Miller.
By phone on +39 081 797 2331 or by email at [email protected].
The Royal Palace, Piazza del Plebiscito, Galleria Umberto I and Gran Caffè Gambrinus.
Tour operator
Guided tours of a 19th-century Bourbon tunnel beneath Monte di Dio, used as a wartime shelter and later as a dump for cars, scooters and statues.
Café
Grand historic café founded in 1860 opposite the Royal Palace, with neoclassical and Liberty-style rooms, pastries, gelato and classic Neapolitan coffee.
Hotel
Historic five-star hotel on the Via Partenope seafront, welcoming guests since 1882, with 160 rooms and a ninth-floor restaurant overlooking the bay.
Restaurant
Historic pizzeria run by the Condurro family, serving only marinara and margherita in a plain dining room on Via Cesare Sersale since 1930.