Attraction
National Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN)
One of the world's great archaeological museums, holding the Farnese sculptures and the mosaics, frescoes and objects excavated at Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Former Carthusian monastery on the Vomero hill with a lavish baroque church, a great cloister, a famous nativity collection and sweeping views over the bay.
Good to know
The Certosa di San Martino is a former Carthusian monastery on the top of the Vomero hill, right below Castel Sant'Elmo. It was completed in 1368 under Queen Joanna I and dedicated to St Martin of Tours, then remodelled from 1623 by Cosimo Fanzago, who gave it most of its present baroque appearance. The monks were expelled in 1799 and the state took over the complex after Italian unification; it has been a museum since 1866.
The church is the first highlight, a lavish baroque interior of inlaid marble, frescoed vaults and paintings by many of the leading artists active in Naples in the 17th century. Beyond it, the Great Cloister is one of the most elegant spaces in the city, with a white arcade and, along the monks' cemetery, a balustrade topped with marble skulls. The museum is known above all for its collection of Neapolitan nativity scenes, including the large Cuciniello presepe with hundreds of figures, and for its rooms on the history of Naples. The 19th-century gallery holds around 950 paintings. From the terraced gardens and the belvedere you get one of the finest views of the city, the bay and Vesuvius.
The Certosa opens from 8.30 to 19.30 every day except Wednesday, with last entry at 18.30; the prior's quarters and the nativity section keep shorter hours, from 9.40 to 17.00. Some areas, including the underground Gothic rooms and the naval section, are closed at present. Allow at least two hours. Tickets can be booked on the Musei Italiani portal, but are usually available on arrival.
San Martino suits anyone who likes architecture, views or the Neapolitan Christmas tradition, and the nativity scenes are a hit with children. It is a peaceful contrast to the crowded streets of the centre below.
The easiest way up is by funicular: the Montesanto funicular stops at Morghen and the Centrale funicular from Via Toledo stops at Piazza Fuga, both a short uphill walk away, or take metro Line 1 to Vanvitelli. Castel Sant'Elmo is next door, and the Pedamentina, a long stepped path, leads back down to the old town for those happy to walk.
From 8.30 to 19.30 every day except Wednesday; last entry is at 18.30.
A large Neapolitan nativity scene with hundreds of figures, the most famous piece in the museum's nativity collection.
Yes, the gardens and belvedere look over the city, the bay and Vesuvius.
At least two hours for the church, cloisters and museum.
Take a funicular to the Vomero (Morghen or Piazza Fuga stops) or metro Line 1 to Vanvitelli, then walk uphill.
Not at present; the underground Gothic rooms, decorative arts and naval sections are closed.
Castel Sant'Elmo, the star-shaped fortress on the top of the hill.
Yes, the museum lists a café among its services.
Tour operator
Guided tours of a 19th-century Bourbon tunnel beneath Monte di Dio, used as a wartime shelter and later as a dump for cars, scooters and statues.
Café
Grand historic café founded in 1860 opposite the Royal Palace, with neoclassical and Liberty-style rooms, pastries, gelato and classic Neapolitan coffee.
Hotel
Historic five-star hotel on the Via Partenope seafront, welcoming guests since 1882, with 160 rooms and a ninth-floor restaurant overlooking the bay.
Restaurant
Historic pizzeria run by the Condurro family, serving only marinara and margherita in a plain dining room on Via Cesare Sersale since 1930.