Castel Sant’Elmo

Castel Sant'Elmo crowns the Vomero hill, the highest point of central Naples, and its pale walls are visible from almost everywhere in the city. A fortified structure stood here by the late 13th century, and King Robert of Anjou enlarged it in 1329. Its present star shape dates from 1537 to 1547, when the Spanish viceroy Pedro de Toledo had it rebuilt to designs by the military engineer Pedro Luis Escrivá. For centuries it served as a garrison and a prison: the philosopher Tommaso Campanella was held here in 1604 and patriots of the 1799 revolution were later imprisoned within its walls. It remained a military prison until 1952.

The main reason to come is the view. From the ramparts and the parade ground at the top you can follow the whole city laid out below: the straight line of Spaccanapoli cutting through the old town, the port, the bay and Vesuvius, with the Sorrento peninsula, Capri and the Phlegraean Fields on clear days. It is one of the best places in Naples to understand the city's geography, and seeing the dense grid of the historic centre from above makes later walks through it easier to follow. Bring water on hot days, as there is little shade on the ramparts.

Inside the former upper prison, the Museo del Novecento, opened in 2010, shows more than 170 works by Neapolitan artists made between 1910 and 1980, from early modernism to the Transavanguardia movement. The castle also hosts temporary exhibitions and events. Tickets are inexpensive, and the site is wholly or partly accessible to visitors with disabilities. Allow 60 to 90 minutes, and try to come on a clear day; late afternoon light is particularly good.

It is a good stop for couples, photographers and families, and a sensible first visit for anyone who wants an overview of Naples before exploring the streets below.

The castle stands next to the Certosa di San Martino, and the two are easily combined in a half day. Take metro Line 1 to Vanvitelli or one of the funiculars to the Vomero, then walk up Via Tito Angelini, a steady uphill climb of about ten minutes. Piazza Vanvitelli, with its cafés and shops, is a good place to finish.