Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)

Vinicunca, better known as Rainbow Mountain, is a high-altitude day hike from Cusco for travellers who want a landscape rather than a ruin. It rises south-east of the city on the road towards Ausangate, between the districts of Cusipata in Quispicanchi and Pitumarca in Canchis, and its highest point is given as 5,036 metres. Its bands of colour drew mass tourism from the middle of the 2010s.

The stripes come from the minerals in the rock. Pink comes from red clay, mud and sand; white from quartz-rich sandstone and marls with calcium carbonate; red from iron-rich claystones; green from phyllites and clays rich in iron and magnesium; brown from a conglomerate containing magnesium; and mustard yellow from limy sandstones with sulphurous minerals. The mountain was once capped by glacier ice, which melted away in 2013, revealing the colours more clearly.

There are several ways in. The best-known route is a drive of around two hours from Cusco followed by a walk of about 5 kilometres. A route via Pitumarca involves a longer drive of around three and a half hours and then a short, steep walk of about half a kilometre. There are also approaches from Pampa Chiri along the Vinicunca pass and from Cusipata along the Chillihuani bridle path. Robust public transport to the site has never been developed, so an organised day trip from Cusco that handles the driving is the practical choice for most people.

The altitude is the real challenge. Even a short walk at over 5,000 metres is hard work, so it makes sense to do this only after a few days of acclimatisation in Cusco or the Sacred Valley, and to turn back if you feel unwell. Rainfall is heavy in December, January and February, which can make the trails muddy and hide the colours under cloud, so the drier months are a better bet. Pack warm layers, sun protection, water and snacks, as conditions change quickly at this height.

The mountain's popularity has brought pressures. In 2015 a mining company applied to explore an area of about 400 hectares that included it, and a concession granted in 2018 was given up after public protests. A moratorium on mining followed, and in 2019 Ausangate became one of three new Regional Conservation Areas. Staying on the marked paths helps protect the area.