San Pedro Market

San Pedro Market is where Cusco does its shopping, and a morning here is one of the easiest ways to see everyday life in the city. The market stands on Calle Tupac Amaru in the historic centre, about five blocks or a ten-minute walk south-west of the Plaza de Armas along Calle Mantas, and its iron roof makes it easy to spot. Its roots go back to the early 20th century and the present building dates from 1925; the iron-framed design is often credited to Gustave Eiffel, though that attribution is best taken as local lore.

Inside, the market is divided into sections, and wandering through them is half the fun. Juice stalls blend Andean and tropical fruit to order, and it is customary to be given an extra top-up from the jug, known as la ñapa. The food counters serve caldo de gallina, a restorative chicken soup, as well as chicharrón, crisp fried pork, rocoto relleno, the stuffed spicy pepper, and choclo con queso, giant Cusco corn with fresh cheese. Look out for chiriuchu, a festive cold platter that can include cuy, chicken and cheese, and for pan chuta, a large anise-flavoured bread.

The produce aisles are a lesson in Andean farming, with tubers, fruit and vegetables alongside grains such as quinoa, kiwicha and kañiwa. Further in are butchers and cheese sellers, and one area is given over to medicinal plants, coca leaves, dried flowers and roots. Towards the outer edges you will find handicrafts, alpaca garments, textiles and ceramics, so it is possible to combine breakfast with souvenir shopping.

Early morning, roughly between 07:00 and 10:00, is the best time to see the market at its busiest and freshest. Bring cash in small notes, as most vendors accept only cash and there are no cash machines inside. Ask before photographing stallholders, since some prefer not to be photographed or may expect a tip. The aisles get crowded, so keep bags in front of you and valuables secure.

The market suits curious travellers of every kind, including families and anyone on a budget looking for a filling local breakfast or lunch. It is also a good place to try fruit you will not find at home, as vendors often offer a taste before you buy. If you want more context about the ingredients and the people who sell them, a guided visit adds a great deal.