Pasticceria Marchesi 1824

Marchesi is one of the oldest pastry shops in Milan, founded in 1824 and still trading from its historic shop on Via Santa Maria alla Porta, between the Duomo and the Last Supper. In 2014 it came under the ownership of Miuccia Prada's group, which has since opened further shops in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and on Via Monte Napoleone, but the original keeps its old-fashioned character, with a mustard-coloured facade, polished wood, glass cabinets of cakes and jars of colourful sweets. The shop survived the bombings of the Second World War, and its windows are a sight in themselves.

Most Milanese come here for a coffee and a pastry at the bar, standing at the counter as is the local habit. The choice of breakfast pastries is wide, and the cabinets hold small pastries, single-portion cakes and larger cakes such as the vanilla-based Aurora. Chocolates, pralines and gianduiotti fill the shelves, and in the weeks before Christmas the shop is busy with customers buying its panettone, sold in elegant hand-tied boxes. For the bicentenary in 2024 the pastry team created new products around historic ingredients such as chocolate, coffee, vanilla and marrons glacés.

Prices are higher than at a neighbourhood bar, reflecting the setting and the quality, but a coffee at the counter remains an affordable luxury. Table service costs more. Staff in smart uniforms work quickly at busy times, and the atmosphere is part of the pleasure.

Marchesi suits anyone who enjoys historic cafés, and it makes a good stop before or after a visit to the Last Supper, which is about ten minutes' walk away. Families are welcome, though the space at the bar is limited at peak times. The shop is also a good place to buy edible gifts to take home; the boxes travel well.

Mornings are the busiest time, when locals stop for breakfast on the way to work, and weekend afternoons are popular too. The nearest metro stops are Cordusio and Cairoli on line M1, both a short walk away. The Galleria branch is convenient if you are near the Duomo, and the Monte Napoleone shop serves the fashion district.