Pasticceria Cova Montenapoleone

Cova is one of Milan's grand old cafés, a pastry shop with more than two centuries of history. Antonio Cova founded it in 1817 next to the Teatro alla Scala, and it became a meeting place for the city's upper class, artists, musicians, writers and politicians. During the uprising of the Five Days of Milan in 1848 it played a part in events, and in 1943 wartime bombing damaged the original premises. In 1950 Cova moved to Via Montenapoleone, at the heart of what is now the fashion district, and since 2013 it has been owned by the LVMH group.

The Montenapoleone café is several places in one. At the front, a coffee counter serves espresso and breakfast to a steady stream of regulars and shoppers, who stand at the bar with a brioche. The pastry cabinets hold cakes, small pastries, biscuits and chocolates, including gianduiotti, pralines and cremini. Behind, a tea room offers afternoon tea in a refined setting, and a restaurant serves Milanese and traditional Italian dishes, with an all-day menu and a lunch menu. At Christmas, Cova's panettone is a classic Milanese gift.

Prices are what you would expect on one of Europe's most expensive shopping streets, but a coffee at the bar is still a reasonably priced way to experience the place. Table service in the tea room and restaurant costs considerably more. Dress is smart casual, and the atmosphere is elegant without being stuffy.

The café suits shoppers, couples and anyone curious about the traditions of Milanese café life. It is a good place for a break during a walk around the Quadrilatero della Moda, the grid of streets with the main fashion houses. Families are welcome, though the setting is formal for young children.

Cova opens every day, from early morning on weekdays and from mid-morning on Sundays, with later closing from Wednesday to Saturday. The restaurant and tea room can be busy at lunchtime and in the afternoon, especially at weekends. The nearest metro stops are Montenapoleone on line M3 and San Babila on line M1, both a few minutes' walk away. The Museo Poldi Pezzoli and the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum are nearby.