Restaurant
Antica Trattoria della Pesa
One of Milan's oldest restaurants, open since 1880 near Porta Garibaldi, with a preserved period interior and traditional Lombard cooking.
A family-run trattoria in the old Cinque Vie quarter, serving risotto alla milanese, ossobuco and cotoletta since 1933.
Good to know
Trattoria Milanese is one of the most reliable places in the city to eat the classic dishes of Milan in a traditional setting. It opened in 1933 on Via Santa Marta, in the Cinque Vie, a quiet tangle of old streets between Sant'Ambrogio and Piazza Affari, and it has been run by the same family for three generations. The rooms are simple and wood-panelled, the service is brisk and friendly, and the clientele is a mix of local regulars, office workers and visitors who have heard of its reputation.
The menu sticks closely to Milanese tradition. Risotto alla milanese, golden with saffron, is the dish to start with, and it is often paired with ossobuco, slowly braised veal shin, which is the classic combination in the city. The cotoletta alla milanese, a bone-in veal chop breaded and fried in butter, is another reason people come. Depending on the season you may also find dishes such as cotechino, tripe and other old Lombard recipes, and the desserts are homely rather than elaborate. Portions are generous, so it is easy to over-order.
Prices are in the upper middle range for a trattoria, reflecting the quality of the meat and the central location, but it is still good value compared with many restaurants in the fashion district. The wine list leans towards Italian regional bottles, and staff are happy to suggest something to match.
The trattoria suits anyone who wants to try the Milanese classics in one meal, including families and couples, and it works well for a long lunch after a morning of sightseeing. Booking is recommended, especially for dinner and at weekends, as the dining room is not large. It is closed on Sundays, and it opens for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Dress is smart casual.
The nearest metro stops are Cordusio on line M1 and Sant'Ambrogio on line M2, each about ten minutes' walk away, and the Duomo is roughly 15 minutes on foot. Afterwards, the narrow streets of the Cinque Vie are worth a wander, and the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana and the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio are both close by. If you are in Milan only briefly and want one traditional Milanese meal, this is a sensible choice.
Risotto alla milanese, ossobuco and the cotoletta alla milanese are the classic choices.
It opened in 1933 and is run by the third generation of the same family.
No. It is closed on Sundays and opens for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.
Booking is recommended, especially for dinner and at weekends.
It is in the upper middle price range for a trattoria, but good value for the quality and location.
Yes. The food is traditional and familiar, and the atmosphere is relaxed.
Walk about ten minutes from Cordusio on metro M1 or Sant'Ambrogio on M2.
The Cinque Vie quarter, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana and the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio.
Bar
The historic aperitivo bar at the Duomo entrance of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, serving Campari-based drinks since 1915.
Attraction
Milan's Gothic cathedral, begun in 1386 and finished only in the 20th century, with marble spires, a gilded Madonnina and walkable rooftop terraces.
Thing to do
Milan's medieval canal quarter around the Naviglio Grande and the Darsena, known for its waterside walks, aperitivo bars and monthly antiques market.
Hotel
A five-star hotel with 108 rooms and suites beside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, steps from the Duomo, with a cocktail bar and restaurants.