Letná Park

Letná Park, or Letenské sady, spreads across a plateau on the north bank of the Vltava, directly above the Old Town. Steep wooded slopes drop down to the river, and from the edge of the park you get one of the classic views of Prague: the row of bridges crossing the Vltava one behind the other, with the spires of the Old Town beyond. It is a favourite with locals for running, cycling, walking dogs and meeting friends in the evening, and it is completely free.

The park has a layered history. In 1955 the largest monument to Stalin in the world was unveiled on the edge of the plateau, only to be blown up in 1962. Its massive granite base is still there, and the site is now marked by the Prague Metronome, a giant red metronome by Vratislav Novák that swings slowly above the city. The plinth has become a gathering point for skateboarders and a place to watch the sunset. Further east stands the Hanavský Pavilion, a cast-iron Neo-Baroque building made for the Jubilee Exhibition of 1891 and moved here afterwards, which now houses a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the river.

Letná is best known to visitors for its beer garden, a large open-air space under the chestnut trees near the Letenský zámeček restaurant. In warm weather it fills with people drinking Czech beer from plastic cups at long tables, and it is one of the most relaxed places in Prague to spend a summer evening. The beer garden is seasonal, so do not expect it to be open in winter, when the park is quieter but still good for a walk.

The park suits almost everyone: families can use the playgrounds, runners have long paths, and couples come for the views. Allow an hour for a walk along the edge from the Metronome to the Hanavský Pavilion, longer if you stop for a drink. Bring a jacket in the evening, as it can be breezy on the plateau.

From the Old Town, cross the Čechův Bridge and climb the steps up to the Metronome, a short but steep walk. Alternatively take a tram to Letenské náměstí or Sparta. The National Technical Museum, the National Gallery's Trade Fair Palace and the Holešovice district are all within walking distance.