Kavárna Slavia

Kavárna Slavia, the Slavia café, stands on the corner of Národní třída and the Vltava embankment, directly opposite the National Theatre. It has been serving guests since 1881 and is one of the most famous cafés in the city, with a long history as a meeting place for actors, writers and artists. During the communist era it was a gathering point for dissidents, including Václav Havel, who later became president. The café's best-known artwork, the painting The Absinthe Drinker by Viktor Oliva, has become a symbol of the place.

The room is long and bright, with large windows on two sides. The tables by the windows give views across the river to Prague Castle and Charles Bridge, and of the National Theatre across the street, which is why many visitors come. The interior is Art Deco, with a calm, slightly old-fashioned atmosphere. Every evening from 17:00 to 22:00 a pianist plays live.

The menu runs through the day. Breakfast is served until 14:00, and from 11:00 the kitchen offers traditional Czech and international dishes, along with a choice of desserts, coffee and wine. A daily menu is also available. The food is solid rather than ambitious, but the setting is the point here: an afternoon coffee and cake by the window, or a drink after a performance at the National Theatre, are the classic ways to enjoy it.

Reservations are not usually needed, and the café says staff can generally find a table within about ten minutes even at weekends. Weekend reservations are taken only from 19:00, none on public holidays, and groups of more than ten should email in advance. The café has recently been taken over by a new operator, so menus and details may change.

Slavia suits couples, theatre-goers and anyone wanting a classic Prague café with a view. Allow an hour for coffee and cake, and ask for a window table when you arrive if one is free. Národní divadlo tram stop is outside the door, and Národní třída metro station on line B is a few minutes' walk. Charles Bridge is about ten minutes north along the embankment, and the Legion Bridge leads across the river to Kampa Island and Café Savoy.