Kosybar

Kosybar is a long-established restaurant, bar and café in a converted riad on the edge of the Mellah, close to the ruins of El Badi Palace. It describes itself as a place where people meet, open day and night, and it has become a favourite for sunset drinks in the southern medina, a part of the old city where licensed bars are few.

The house is arranged over several levels, with salons inside and terraces above. From the top you look over Place des Ferblantiers and the walls of El Badi, where storks nest on the ramparts, and on clear evenings the light fades over the Kasbah. The bar mixes cocktails, and the kitchen offers Moroccan and international dishes for a full meal or lighter plates.

The atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious, which makes it a good option for couples, friends and solo travellers who want a drink after a day of sightseeing without the formality of a hotel bar. It suits those staying in the Kasbah and Mellah particularly well, as it is within easy walking distance of the riads in this area. Families are welcome during the day, when it works as a café.

Kosybar is open throughout the day and into the evening. Arrive about an hour before sunset to find a seat on the terrace, as it fills up quickly at golden hour, and book ahead by phone if you plan to stay for dinner. Access to the upper terraces is by stairs. Allow an hour for a drink or two hours for dinner.

The bar is at Place des Ferblantiers, the square of metalworkers at the entrance to the Mellah, about fifteen minutes' walk south of Jemaa el-Fnaa. El Badi Palace, the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs are all within a few minutes on foot, so a visit fits naturally at the end of a day in the southern medina. Petits taxis can drop off near the square, which makes the journey back to your hotel straightforward after dark. If you are staying deeper in the medina, it is a short and well-used walk back towards Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid and Jemaa el-Fnaa. Wear a layer in winter, as rooftop terraces cool quickly once the sun has gone.