Le Salama

Le Salama is a restaurant and bar on Rue des Banques, a lane just off the north side of Jemaa el-Fnaa, and it is one of the few places right beside the square where you can have a cocktail on a rooftop. It combines Moroccan cuisine with sunset drinks and a nightly dinner show, which makes it a convenient one-stop evening for visitors staying in the central medina.

The building rises to a terrace spread over three levels, with views over the medina rooftops towards the Koutoubia. The top level operates as a sky bar for cocktails and tapas, and the terraces below are used for dining and the show. The kitchen serves Moroccan dishes, such as tagines and couscous, alongside lighter plates for sharing with drinks.

The entertainment begins at 21:00, with a live belly dance show every night accompanied by music, and the atmosphere becomes lively as the evening goes on. It suits couples and groups who want dinner, drinks and a show without travelling to Hivernage, and it is a good choice for a first or last night in the city. It is less suited to anyone seeking a quiet dinner.

Book ahead if you want a table for the show or a seat on the upper terrace at sunset, which are the most popular times. Opening hours are not listed on the official website, so check when you reserve by phone. Access to the terraces is by stairs. Allow an hour for a sunset drink or two to three hours for dinner and the show. Prices are higher than at the simpler cafés around the square, reflecting the setting and the entertainment.

Rue des Banques runs off the north side of Jemaa el-Fnaa, near the entrance to the souks, so Le Salama is only a couple of minutes' walk from the square. Café de France and the food stalls are close by, and the Koutoubia is a short walk west. Kabana is within ten minutes on foot if you want to continue to another rooftop, and taxis gather at the edges of the square for the journey home. Keep your belongings close when crossing the square late at night.