Jafra Restaurant & Cafe

Jafra is one of Downtown Amman's best-loved café-restaurants, a place to sit over Turkish coffee and mezze in an old building full of character. It occupies a historic building on Al-Amir Mohammad Street, decorated with old signs, an intact library and an antique typewriter, and a balcony looks out over the city. Lighting is soft, the furniture is simple and wooden, and the atmosphere is relaxed and sociable.

The drinks menu covers traditional Turkish coffee, teas, coffees, fresh juices and smoothies, and shisha, known locally as argileh, is widely smoked. Food is local and Levantine, with a traditional mezze menu and fresh bread. Highlights include fatteh hummus, served hot with local ghee, shanklish, a herbed sheep's cheese, and galayet bandora, tomatoes cooked with meat and served in a clay pot. There are good vegetarian options among the mezze, and prices are reasonable.

Jafra suits families, groups of friends, couples on a first date and travellers who want to experience a traditional Amman café without feeling out of place. In the evenings there is often live music, and the room is busy every night, so reserve or arrive early if you want a good table, especially on weekends. A Friday brunch is a quieter, more family-oriented way to enjoy the food.

If you are sensitive to smoke, note that shisha is a big part of the experience here, so a balcony table is often more comfortable. Allow an hour or two: this is a place for lingering rather than a quick stop. It works well as an evening alternative to the bars of Jabal Amman for anyone who prefers a non-alcoholic night out, and the historic décor makes it one of the most photogenic cafés in Downtown. Ask for a balcony seat if you want a view over the city while you eat.

The café is in the heart of Downtown, on the same street as Hashem Restaurant, a short walk from the Grand Husseini Mosque, Habibah Sweets and the souks, and within walking distance of the Roman Theatre. It is a natural place to rest between sightseeing in the old centre, or to finish a day there with music and coffee.