Café
Habibah Sweets
The original Downtown kunafa counter, serving Habibah's famous warm Nabulsi kunafa in its alley since 1951, with queues of locals at all hours.
A pioneering café, bar and bookshop just off Rainbow Street since 1997, with a terrace overlooking the Old City, books in several languages and cultural events.
Good to know
Books@Cafe is one of the longest-running independent cafés in Amman and a landmark of the Jabal Amman scene. It opened in 1997 as the first internet café in the Middle East and has since grown into a combined café, bar and bookshop just off the far end of Rainbow Street. Its outdoor terrace looks out over the Old City and Citadel Hill.
Inside, the two-storey space mixes modern and rustic design, with brick walls and patterned details. The bookshop sells new and second-hand books in Arabic and other languages, covering poetry, fiction, religion, psychology and children's books, so it is a good place to pick up reading for the rest of a trip. The food menu combines local and international dishes, from salads and juices to cheese fries, and in the evenings the bar serves cocktails.
The café is also a cultural venue, hosting talks, unconventional book launches, underground music concerts and poetry readings. It describes itself as an inclusive space, and it has long drawn a mixed crowd of young Ammanis, artists, expatriates and visitors. It employs refugees among its staff.
Books@Cafe suits solo travellers, book lovers, couples and anyone who wants a relaxed place to spend an afternoon or evening. Come in the late afternoon for coffee and the view, then stay on for dinner or a drink. It gets busier in the evening and at weekends, when a table outside is worth arriving early for. Allow at least an hour, longer if you want to browse the shelves. Check its social media channels for upcoming events, as concerts and readings are a good way to meet people in the city's creative community. The healthy juices are a popular daytime order, and the menu is broad enough for a full meal.
The café is a few minutes' walk from the main stretch of Rainbow Street, so it fits naturally into an evening stroll along the street. Al Quds Falafel, the craft showrooms and several rooftop bars are close by, and Downtown is a short taxi ride below. It is easy to combine with a sunset drink at one of the street's rooftop bars or a walk through the lanes of Jabal Amman.
In 1997, as the first internet café in the Middle East.
A café, bar and bookshop with a terrace overlooking the Old City.
Yes, new and second-hand books in Arabic and other languages.
Yes, cocktails are served in the evenings.
Yes, including talks, book launches, concerts and poetry readings.
Yes, the terrace looks over the Old City and Citadel Hill.
Just off the far end of Rainbow Street in Jabal Amman.
Bar
An izakaya-style wine bar hidden behind 13C, Amman's largest wine and spirits shop, pairing flights, cocktails and small plates on a cosy patio.
Attraction
Amman's oldest inhabited hill, crowned by the Roman Temple of Hercules, an Umayyad palace, a Byzantine church and wide views over Downtown.
Tour operator
A cook-and-dine experience in a family home in Jabal al-Weibdeh, where local hajjehs teach guests to prepare and share a seasonal Arabic meal.
Restaurant
An elegant Levantine restaurant in a restored Jabal Amman villa, open since 1997 and known for its kibbeh, mezze and attentive, old-school hospitality.