Elephanta Caves

The Elephanta Caves are a group of rock-cut temples on Elephanta Island, also known as Gharapuri, about 11 kilometres east of the Gateway of India in Mumbai Harbour. They were carved mostly between the 5th and 7th centuries and were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. The island has five Hindu caves on its western hill and two Buddhist caves on the eastern hill, along with older Buddhist stupa mounds. The site is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India.

The reason to come is Cave 1, the great cave dedicated to Shiva. Its pillared hall is lined with large relief panels, and the most celebrated is the three-headed Sadashiva, often called the Trimurti, which shows different aspects of Shiva in one colossal sculpture several metres high. Other panels show Shiva as Nataraja, the lord of dance, as Ardhanarishvara, half male and half female, receiving the river Ganga, and at his wedding to Parvati. Some carvings were damaged over the centuries, but the scale and quality of the work are still clear.

A trip to Elephanta takes most of a day, and the journey is part of it. Ferries leave from the jetties beside the Gateway of India and the crossing takes around an hour each way. From the island jetty you head inland to the ticket counter, then climb roughly 120 steep steps to the main cave. The steps make the site hard going for people with limited mobility, and it can be very hot in the middle of the day, so carry water, wear a hat and comfortable shoes, and keep a close eye on food and belongings.

The caves suit anyone interested in Indian art, history or religion, and families with older children usually enjoy the boat ride and the island. Allow at least four to five hours from the Gateway and back. Go early on a weekday to avoid the biggest crowds, and avoid Mondays, when the caves are closed. During the monsoon, from roughly June to September, the sea can be rough, so check that ferries are running before you set out.

Once you have seen Cave 1, it is worth walking on to the smaller Hindu caves nearby and, if you have energy, up to the Buddhist caves on the eastern hill for a quieter view across the harbour. Back on the mainland, the Taj Mahal Palace and the cafes and shops of Colaba are a short walk from the ferry jetty.