Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat

The Dhobi Ghat at Mahalaxmi is one of the most unusual sights in Mumbai: a vast open-air laundry where clothes and linen from across the city are washed by hand. It was built in 1890 and is often described as the largest outdoor laundry in the world. More than 7,000 people work here, often for 18 hours or more a day.

From above you see row after row of concrete wash pens, each with its own flogging stone, where workers soak, beat and scrub the laundry before it is rinsed, dyed or bleached as needed. Beyond the pens, lines of washing hang to dry in long, colourful ranks, and in the sheds and lanes the clothes are pressed, folded and bundled for delivery back across Mumbai. It is a working place rather than a show, which is exactly why it is so interesting to see.

Many visitors are content to look at the ghat from the edge, near Mahalaxmi station, which gives a good overview. If you want to go inside, it is better to visit with a guide or an organised walk, which can explain how the business works. Either way, remember that this is a place where people live and work: ask before taking close-up photographs of individuals, and stay out of the way of anyone carrying loads.

Morning is the best time to come, when the washing is in full swing and the light is good for photographs. Allow 20 minutes for the viewpoint or about an hour for a guided walk inside. The lanes can be wet and uneven, so wear shoes you do not mind getting dirty. Keep in mind that people are working hard around you and that the laundry business runs to tight schedules. The viewpoint is easy for anyone to reach, while going inside involves narrow, slippery paths.

The ghat sits beside Mahalaxmi station on the Western Railway suburban line, near the Saat Rasta junction, and can also be reached from the Mahalaxmi Metro station on the Aqua Line and from Jacob Circle on the monorail. The Haji Ali Dargah is a short taxi ride to the west, so the two are easy to visit together.