Attraction
Gateway of India
The 1924 basalt arch on the Apollo Bunder waterfront, built to mark a royal visit and now the departure point for Elephanta ferries.
A whitewashed 15th-century Sufi shrine and mosque on an islet in Haji Ali Bay, reached by a long causeway that floods at high tide.
Good to know
The Haji Ali Dargah is a mosque and shrine on a small islet in Haji Ali Bay, off the Worli coast. It holds the tomb of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, a Sufi saint and merchant from Bukhara, and the original structure dates from 1431. It is one of the most visited religious sites in Mumbai, drawing people of all faiths, and the sight of the white building apparently floating offshore is one of the classic images of the city.
The shrine is reached by a causeway about a kilometre long with no railings. It is only usable at low tide; when the tide comes in, the sea covers it and the dargah is cut off. The building itself is in the Indo-Islamic style, whitewashed and set on a marble courtyard, and the main hall is decorated with mirror work in patterns spelling out the 99 names of Allah. The complex was extensively renovated in the 1960s, and a major structural upgrade began in 2008. Since a Bombay High Court ruling in 2016, women have been able to enter the inner sanctum again.
The causeway walk is part of the experience, with the open sea on both sides and the shrine growing larger as you approach. It can be very crowded on Thursdays and Fridays and during religious festivals. Check the tide times before you go, and allow around an hour to walk out, visit and return. The sea views back towards the city skyline are best in the late afternoon.
The dargah is a place of worship, so dress modestly, with shoulders and legs covered; women may want a scarf to cover their heads, and everyone removes their shoes before entering the shrine. Photography is generally fine on the causeway, but be respectful inside. The causeway is level but has no railings and can be slippery after rain or spray, which matters if you are with small children. During the monsoon the sea can be rough and access may be restricted.
Haji Ali is on the western shore of central Mumbai, between Worli and the Mahalaxmi area, and most visitors come by taxi. The Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat open-air laundry is a short taxi ride away, so the two are easy to combine, and Marine Drive and Girgaum Chowpatty lie further south along the same coast for an evening walk.
Only when the tide is low; the causeway floods at high tide and the dargah is cut off, so check tide times first.
No. The dargah is a place of worship and there is no ticket.
Yes. Women have been allowed back into the sanctum since a Bombay High Court ruling in 2016.
Modest clothing covering shoulders and legs; shoes are removed before entering the shrine.
About one kilometre, with no railings.
The original shrine dates from 1431.
Thursdays, Fridays and religious festivals bring the largest crowds.
Most visitors arrive by taxi; the causeway starts on the Worli shore of Haji Ali Bay.
Bar
A rooftop bar on the 34th floor of the Four Seasons in Worli, with skyline and Arabian Sea views, inventive cocktails, wine and international small plates.
Café
Around 120 years old and described as Mumbai's oldest operating Irani cafe, serving bun maska, Irani chai, keema pav and cherry custard near Marine Lines.
Thing to do
A three-kilometre seafront promenade curving from Nariman Point to Girgaum Chowpatty beach, best walked at sunset when the Queen's Necklace lights come on.
Tour operator
An award-winning social enterprise running Dharavi tours, street food walks, bicycle tours and local transport tours, with most profits funding community projects.