City Palace Jaipur

The City Palace sits at the centre of the walled old city that Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II laid out after moving his court from Amer in 1727. Building began in 1729, with the Bengali architect Vidyadhar Bhattacharya playing a central role, and the complex grew over the following two centuries into a sequence of courtyards, gardens and halls that blend Rajput and Mughal ideas with some later European touches. Part of the palace is still the home of the former royal family, while much of the rest is a museum run by a family trust.

The palace is open daily from 09:30 to 18:30, closing only on Dhulandi, the second day of Holi. Tickets are sold at both visitor gates, one near the Jantar Mantar ticket counter and one at Jaleb Chowk; the Tripolia gate is reserved for the family. The first major building is the Mubarak Mahal, built in 1900 to receive guests and now home to the textile gallery, with royal costumes and fabrics. Further in, the Diwan-i-Khas, the open hall of private audience, holds the two giant silver urns known as the Gangajali, each around 1.6 m tall. They were made from melted silver coins so that Madho Singh II could carry Ganges water with him on his journey to England in 1902.

For many people the highlight is Pritam Niwas Chowk, an inner courtyard with four small painted doorways, each representing a season. The Peacock Gate, covered in peacock motifs, is the most photographed. Above the courtyard rises the seven-storey Chandra Mahal, the private residence; a flag flies from its summit, with an extra quarter flag when the head of the family is in residence. The galleries also cover paintings, photographs, and the Sileh Khana armoury.

Allow two hours for the standard route, more if you are keen on textiles or miniature paintings. The palace is in the old city, where traffic and crowds build from late morning, so an early start makes sense. There are cafés and a restaurant inside if you need a break.

The palace also plays a part in Jaipur's festival calendar. During Gangaur in spring and Teej in the monsoon, processions set out from the City Palace through the old city streets, and visiting at these times gives a glimpse of royal ceremony that still survives.

Jantar Mantar is next door, and Hawa Mahal is a short walk away on the edge of the palace grounds, so the three are easily seen together in one morning. The bazaars of the Pink City, including Johari Bazaar, are also within walking distance.