Nahargarh Fort

Nahargarh Fort runs along the crest of the Aravalli ridge directly above the old city of Jaipur. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II built it mainly in 1734 as a retreat, and it formed a defensive ring with Amber and Jaigarh forts, linked by long walls that snake across the hills. It never faced a real siege, although it played a role in 18th-century treaties with the Marathas and sheltered European residents during the uprising of 1857. It also served as a hunting retreat for the maharajas.

The main building to explore is the Madhavendra Bhawan, added by Sawai Madho Singh. It contains a set of identical suites for the queens arranged around a courtyard, with a suite for the king at the head, all connected by corridors so that he could visit any of them discreetly. Some delicate wall paintings survive. Elsewhere, you can walk sections of the ramparts and look straight down onto the grid of the Pink City.

The views are the main reason most visitors come, and late afternoon into sunset is the popular time. Expect weekend crowds of local families and students, and bring a torch if you plan to stay until dusk, as paths and parts of the fort are poorly lit. The fort sits within forest that forms part of the Nahargarh Biological Park, so it is sensible to leave before the gates close rather than wander the hills after dark. Several Hindi and Bengali films have used the fort as a location, including Rang De Basanti.

Allow one to two hours. The road up is steep and winding; most people go by taxi or auto-rickshaw. Whichever way you go, avoid the midday heat in the warmer months. Wear sturdy shoes, as surfaces are uneven, and expect some stairs. The fort is less suited to visitors with limited mobility.

The fort was expanded in 1868, and today it also holds a wax museum with more than 30 figures and a sculpture park showing contemporary work, run by the state government with the arts organisation SathSaath Arts. The walls are floodlit at night, and from the city below the ridge you can see their outline after dark.

Nahargarh can be combined with Jaigarh Fort along the same ridge road, and the drive between them passes through forested hills. Back in the city, Hawa Mahal and City Palace are a short drive below.