Chez Léon

Chez Léon is one of the oldest names in Brussels dining. The family story begins in 1867, when Léon Vanlancker ran a five-table restaurant near the Grand-Place, and the Friture Léon opened at its current address on the Rue des Bouchers in 1893. Generations later the business is still family-run, and it remains the place many visitors think of first when they want moules-frites in Brussels.

Mussels are the reason to come. The house speciality is Zeeland jumbo mussels served in a casserole with crispy fries, prepared in several styles, including the classic marinière. The menu also covers Belgian staples such as meatballs in tomato sauce, sole fillets prepared the Léon way, shrimp croquettes and vol-au-vent, so those who do not eat shellfish still have plenty of choice. Belgian beers make the natural accompaniment.

The restaurant is informal and lively, which suits families, groups and first-time visitors who want a classic Brussels meal without fuss. Prices are moderate for the location. It is popular with tourists, so expect a lively room rather than a quiet dinner; if you prefer a calmer meal, aim for an early lunch or early evening.

The restaurant is open every day. You can reserve online through its website or by phone, which is wise at weekends and in summer, and there is a separate service for groups with set menus. Mussels are traditionally at their best in the colder months, so it is worth asking what is in season. Allow about an hour to an hour and a half.

The Rue des Bouchers is a narrow, pedestrian street of restaurants beside the Royal Galleries of Saint-Hubert, two minutes' walk from the Grand-Place and close to Brussels-Central station. Be aware that some restaurants on the street use touts to draw in passers-by; Chez Léon is at number 18. The Jeanneke Pis is just off the street, and the Grand-Place is lovely for a walk after dinner.

Mussels are usually served by the pot, and a standard portion is substantial, so you may not need a starter. Use the empty shell as a pincer to pick out the rest, as many locals do, and dip the fries in the cooking broth or mayonnaise. Children who are not keen on shellfish will usually find something familiar on the menu.