Chat Thai Thaitown

Chat Thai was founded by Amy Chanta, who has been a pioneer of Thai dining in Sydney since 1989, and it is now run by her daughter Palisa. The original restaurant sits on Campbell Street in Haymarket, in the small area known as Thaitown, close to the Capitol Theatre. Over the years it has grown into a group with several branches, but the Thaitown restaurant is where it began.

The menu is long and covers Isan and Bangkok street-style dishes as well as familiar favourites. Expect noodle and rice dishes, salads, curries, grilled meats and a good range of Thai desserts, many of them hard to find elsewhere in the city. Some produce comes from the family's own farm in Byron Bay. The kitchen can adapt dishes for common allergies, and staff are trained to assist; mention any requirements when you order.

The dining room is busy and turnover is quick, which keeps the atmosphere lively and the prices moderate. Expect to wait for a table at peak times, especially on weekend evenings. Reservations can be requested by email, giving your name, phone number, time, party size and the branch you want to visit, which is helpful for groups.

Chat Thai works well for a relaxed meal with friends, for families and for budget-conscious travellers who want good food without formality. Sharing several dishes is the best way to explore the menu, so come in a group if you can. Service is efficient rather than leisurely, so it is not the place for a long, quiet dinner.

The location is useful before or after a show at the Capitol Theatre, or after an evening exploring Chinatown, Paddy's Markets and Darling Square. Campbell Street has several other Thai restaurants, grocers and dessert shops, so it is worth a stroll even if you are not eating here.

If you are unfamiliar with Thai regional cooking, ask the staff to suggest a balanced selection, mixing a salad, a curry, a noodle dish and something from the grill. The desserts, many based on coconut, palm sugar and sticky rice, are worth leaving room for. Central and Town Hall stations are both within walking distance, and the light rail stops nearby. If the queue is long, the group's other branches, including one at Westfield Sydney in the city centre, offer an alternative.