Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen

Chapter One has been one of the cornerstones of fine dining in Dublin since it opened in 1992 in the basement of the Dublin Writers Museum and the Irish Writers' Centre on Parnell Square. For almost three decades it was led by the chef and owner Ross Lewis, who earned the restaurant a Michelin star that it held from 2007. In May 2021 the chef Mickael Viljanen took over the kitchen, with Lewis remaining a co-owner, and the restaurant was renamed Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen. It has held two Michelin stars since 2022.

The cooking is precise and technical, and it is built on carefully sourced produce, much of it Irish. Menus change with the seasons. A recent three-course lunch menu, for example, offered canapés such as a foie gras royale with apple, walnut and smoked eel, a main course of Castletownbere cod with razor clams, celery, lovage broth and a dashi emulsion, or roast Anjou pigeon cooked in preserved cherry leaves, and desserts including a chocolate tarte soufflé. A selection of artisan cheeses can be added. In the evening there are dinner and tasting menus, which are the fullest expression of the kitchen's style.

This is a restaurant for a special occasion, and the bill reflects that. The lunch menu is the most accessible way to experience the cooking, and it is a good choice if you want to see the city in the evening. Note that the kitchen states it cannot cater for vegan diets or for egg or dairy intolerances, so check before booking if anyone in your party has those requirements. Other dietary needs should be mentioned when you reserve.

Book well ahead, especially for Friday and Saturday dinner, using the reservation page on the restaurant's website or by phone. Allow at least two and a half hours for a dinner tasting menu. Smart casual dress fits the setting, which is calm and comfortable rather than formal.

Parnell Square is at the top of O'Connell Street on the north side of the city. The Dublin Writers Museum above the restaurant makes a fitting visit before lunch, and O'Connell Street and the north city centre are a short walk away.