Bemelmans Bar

Bemelmans Bar, inside The Carlyle on the Upper East Side, is the quintessential old New York cocktail bar. Its walls are covered with whimsical murals of Central Park by Ludwig Bemelmans, the illustrator of the Madeline children's books, who painted them in exchange for lodging at the hotel. The low lighting, dark leather banquettes, small tables and gold-leaf ceiling set a glamorous, slightly hushed tone that has drawn locals, hotel guests and visitors for decades.

Music is central to the experience. A pianist begins at 5:30pm, and from 9pm a jazz trio takes over for the rest of the evening, so the mood shifts from cocktail hour to late-night jazz club. A cover charge applies per person during the music, at a different level for tables and for the bar, and it varies with the performer, so check before you settle in. The drinks list leans towards well-made classics, such as martinis and Manhattans, and there is a dining menu for something more substantial.

Bemelmans is open every day from noon. It closes at midnight on Sunday and Monday, at 12:30am from Tuesday to Thursday, and at 1am on Friday and Saturday. Early afternoon is the quietest time, when you can admire the murals in peace, while evenings, especially at weekends, are busy and seats can be hard to find. Arriving early in the evening, before the trio starts, gives the best chance of a table.

The bar asks guests to dress for the occasion. Athletic wear and very casual clothing are discouraged, and staff may ask guests to change or come back another time, so smart-casual is the minimum. Prices are high, as you would expect in one of the city's most famous hotel bars, but the setting makes it worth a visit for a special night. For enquiries and bookings, the bar has its own phone line and email address.

The bar is at The Carlyle, 35 East 76th Street, at Madison Avenue. The 77th Street station on the 6 line is a short walk east. Combine a drink with an evening at Café Carlyle, the hotel's cabaret room, or with a late opening at the Met, about ten minutes' walk away.