Schwartz’s Deli

Schwartz's is the name most people know when they talk about Montreal smoked meat. Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania, opened it in 1928 as the Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen, and the deli still stands at 3895 Saint-Laurent Boulevard, the historic street Montrealers call the Main. Since March 2012 it has been owned by a partnership that includes the Nakis family, René Angélil and Céline Dion.

The process is what sets the meat apart. The brisket is cured for ten days before it is smoked, and because the city no longer allows wood smoking in restaurants, the deli has used an electric smoker for more than fifty years. Its own spice blends, including a steak and beef spice, a poultry seasoning and a French fry seasoning, are sold in the shop alongside condiments, clothing and gift certificates, which makes it easy to take a taste home.

Order the smoked meat sandwich on rye with yellow mustard and choose how fatty you want it: lean, medium, medium-fat or fat. Medium and medium-fat are the most popular choices. The traditional full order, as described by the Montreal journalist Bill Brownstein, adds fries, a half-sour pickle, coleslaw, a red pepper and a black cherry soda. There is a sit-down menu and a separate take-out menu, and a take-out counter next door has operated since 2008.

The restaurant is small and the queues are famous, particularly with visitors, so expect to wait outside at busy times. If you would rather skip the line, use the take-out counter and eat elsewhere, or order delivery through DoorDash or Uber Eats. The deli also runs a catering service for groups and events.

It suits budget travellers, food lovers and anyone who wants to taste a Montreal classic in its best-known setting. The deli is so much a part of local culture that it inspired a stage production, Schwartz's: The Musical, and a mention in Mordecai Richler's novel Barney's Version.

Saint-Laurent Boulevard runs through the Plateau and is a good street to explore on foot after lunch. For questions about catering or the shop, the deli can be reached by phone on 514 842-4813 or by email at [email protected].