Tour operator
Culinary Backstreets Istanbul
The neighbourhood food-tour company that began in Istanbul in 2009 as Istanbul Eats, known for its day-long Two Markets, Two Continents walk.
A Sultanahmet cookery school and restaurant running hands-on Turkish cooking classes and a weekly market shopping tour that ends with cooking and dinner.
Good to know
Cooking Alaturka is a cookery school and small restaurant on Akbıyık Caddesi in Sultanahmet, a calm street just below the Blue Mosque, where visitors learn to cook Turkish dishes and then sit down to eat them. The restaurant describes itself as an oasis of calm amid the bustle of Sultanahmet, and the hands-on classes are a relaxed way to spend part of a day in the old city.
In a typical class, participants work together to prepare a full Turkish meal: a soup, olive-oil vegetable dishes, a main course and a classic dessert, served with pide bread. Once the cooking is done, everyone sits down in the restaurant to eat what they have made, with Turkish tea or coffee and a choice of drinks such as local wine, cherry juice or ayran. Recipes reflect home cooking rather than restaurant showpieces, so they are practical to recreate at home.
On Wednesdays the company runs Shop Locally Cook Happily, which adds a market and neighbourhood walk before the class. It starts at Sultanahmet Square at 14:30 and finishes at the restaurant at 20:30, for groups of two to eight people. The walk takes in a local farmers' market, where you shop as a Turkish family would, a stroll through the old town, a visit to a local bakery for pide bread and a 17th-century bazaar, with tastings of seasonal produce along the way. Everything consumed during the walk and class is included in the price.
Groups are small, so reserve well ahead, especially in spring and autumn. Booking requires your contact details, group size, preferred days and any dietary requirements, and the team asks to be told about restrictions in advance so that it can accommodate them. Wear comfortable shoes for the walk and come with an appetite.
The classes suit couples, families with older children, solo travellers and anyone who wants to take a taste of Istanbul home. The restaurant is a short walk from Sultanahmet tram stop on the T1 line and close to the hotels of Sultanahmet and Cankurtaran, so it is easy to fit into a sightseeing day. The Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome and the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque are all within ten minutes on foot.
Shop Locally Cook Happily runs on Wednesdays from 14:30 to 20:30, starting at Sultanahmet Square.
Two to eight people.
A soup, olive-oil dishes, a main course and a classic dessert, with pide bread, followed by the meal itself.
Turkish tea or coffee, plus a choice of local wine, cherry juice or ayran.
Yes, everything consumed during the walk and class is included in the price.
Let the team know about restrictions when you book and they will do their best to accommodate them.
At Akbıyık Caddesi No:72A, Sultanahmet.
By phone on +90 212 458 59 19 or by email at [email protected].
Bar
A long-running bar, restaurant and late-night club on the top floor of the historic Mısır Apartment on İstiklal Avenue, with panoramic city views.
Hotel
A five-star Kempinski hotel built around a restored 19th-century Ottoman palace on the Bosphorus shore, with an infinity pool and 317 rooms.
Thing to do
One of the world's oldest covered markets, begun in the 1450s, with 61 vaulted streets of carpet, jewellery, ceramics and textile shops.
Attraction
Justinian's sixth-century domed basilica, now the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, with a separate visitor route through its upper galleries above the prayer hall.