Backdoor 43

Backdoor 43 is one of the most unusual bars in Milan, a speakeasy so small that it has room for only four guests at a time. It sits on the Ripa di Porta Ticinese, the southern bank of the Naviglio Grande, and is often described as one of the smallest bars in the world. Inside, a counter, a handful of stools and a back bar of bottles fill almost the whole space; the toilet is said to be bigger than the bar.

The concept is a private experience. Because the space is so small, guests have a bartender to themselves, who makes drinks to order and talks them through the choices. The bar is known for its selection of whiskies as well as for its cocktails, and part of the idea is freedom, including letting guests choose the music. The result feels more like a private room than a public bar, which makes it popular for celebrations, dates and small groups of friends.

You can also experience Backdoor 43 without a booking. A bartender wearing a Guy Fawkes mask serves cocktails through a small window onto the canal-side street, in specially designed takeaway cups, so passers-by can enjoy a drink while walking along the Navigli. This hatch has become something of a sight in itself during the evening.

To sit inside you must reserve, as the bar works on bookings only. Time slots are limited, so book well ahead for weekend evenings. Prices are higher than in the ordinary canal-side bars, reflecting the private format and the quality of the drinks. The bar opens in the evening and stays open late, and it is closed on Sundays; check the booking page for available times.

Backdoor 43 suits couples, very small groups and cocktail enthusiasts looking for something different. It is not suitable for children or for larger parties. The nearest metro stop is Porta Genova on line M2, about ten minutes' walk away, and the bar is a short stroll from the Darsena. Make it the last stop of an evening along the Navigli, after aperitivo and dinner in the surrounding streets.