Les Deux Magots

Les Deux Magots faces the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés across a small square, and it has been a café at this address since 1884. Its name comes from the earlier shop on the site, which sold silk and novelties and was named after a popular play; the two carved Chinese figures, the magots, still look down on the room from a central pillar. Through the 20th century it was a meeting place for writers and artists, from the Surrealists to Hemingway, Picasso, Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.

The menu covers the whole day. Breakfast includes pastries, eggs and the house hot chocolate, made the old-fashioned way, and lunch and dinner bring salads, sandwiches, omelettes, steak tartare and classic French dishes, with cakes and ice creams in the afternoon. On weekends and public holidays there is a brunch menu from 11am to 3.30pm. The wine list, cocktails and champagne make it a pleasant spot for an evening drink as well.

The café suits people-watchers, literary pilgrims and couples, and the terrace looking onto the church and Boulevard Saint-Germain is one of the most sought-after in the area. The interior, with its mirrors, banquettes and wooden panelling, is a good refuge in cold weather. Since 1933 the café has awarded the Prix des Deux Magots, a literary prize given each January. Prices are high, as at its neighbour the Café de Flore, but service is professional and the setting is the main attraction.

It is open every day from 7.30am to 1am, so it works for an early breakfast before the crowds or a late drink after dinner. The terrace fills up from mid-morning, especially in sunny weather, so arrive early or come in the evening. Allow about an hour, and do not feel rushed, since lingering over a coffee is part of the experience. In summer, a terrace table on the side facing the church is often slightly calmer than the boulevard side.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés station on metro line 4 is directly in front of the café. The church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, one of the oldest in Paris, is across the square, and Brasserie Lipp, the Café de Flore and the shops of Rue de Rennes and Rue du Four are all within a minute or two.