Lady Pi-Pi

Lady Pi-Pi is one of the most talked-about informal restaurants in the Old Town, as much for its location and name as for its food. It sits high on the northern side of the walled city on Antuninska, in an alley that runs under the city walls, and reaching it involves a strenuous climb up the stepped lanes from Stradun. The reward is a split-level outdoor terrace spread beneath a shady pergola.

The name is explained by a cheeky sculpture on the street-facing wall, perched above a stone bowl; look up as you arrive and you will understand. The menu is short and built around the grill: fish, steaks and sausages cooked over the coals and served simply, in keeping with a motto along the lines of grill it, and grill it with affection. Portions are generous and prices sit in the moderate range, making it a favourite with budget-minded visitors.

You cannot reserve a table, and the restaurant is popular, so expect to queue, typically around a quarter of an hour and longer at peak dinner times in July and August. Arriving at opening time for lunch or early for dinner is the best way to avoid a long wait. The terrace is outdoors, so it is at its best on warm evenings; the climb and steps mean it is not suitable for wheelchair users or anyone with limited mobility.

Lady Pi-Pi is a seasonal restaurant, open roughly from April to mid-October, with a lunch service and an evening service and a break in the afternoon. It is closed through the winter, so do not plan on it for a visit between late October and March.

Allow an hour to an hour and a half, plus queuing time. Combine dinner with a sunset walk on the northern stretch of the city walls, or wander back down to Stradun through the quiet lanes. Cash is useful for smaller bills in Old Town eateries, so carry some just in case. Its simplicity is the point: honest grilled food, outdoor tables and a lively, informal atmosphere high above the crowds of Stradun.