À la Mort Subite

À la Mort Subite is one of the oldest cafés in Brussels and a place where the city's traditional drinking culture is still very much alive. It stands on the Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagères, directly opposite the Royal Galleries of Saint-Hubert, and over the decades it has drawn artists, writers and actors; the singer Jacques Brel was among its regulars.

Inside, the café has the feel of an old Brussels institution. The drinks list concentrates on Belgian beer, with a strong selection of gueuze, the blended lambic that is Brussels' most distinctive beer, alongside beers from the rest of Belgium and further afield. If you have never tried lambic-based beers, this is a good place to start, as their tart, dry character is unlike anything else.

Food is simple and suited to drinking: local cheeses and charcuterie, sandwiches and other light dishes, with vegetarian options. Staff can provide allergen information on request.

The café suits anyone wanting a taste of old Brussels, from beer enthusiasts to couples and small groups. It is busy but rarely raucous, and conversation is easy. According to the official website, it opens from 11:00 to midnight from Monday to Saturday and is closed on Sundays, which makes it a good stop for a late lunch, an afternoon beer or the start of an evening.

The café is just north of the Grand-Place, on the street that runs along the Royal Galleries of Saint-Hubert, and Brussels-Central station is a short walk away. The Cathedral, the Rue des Bouchers and the Delirium Café are all close by, so it fits easily into an evening exploring the old town's bars.

If you are on a beer tour of the city, combine it with a visit to the Cantillon brewery in Anderlecht, which still brews lambic in the traditional way, to see where these beers come from. For a first visit, order a gueuze and a plate of cheese, sit back and watch the room. Many Belgian beers are served in their own branded glasses, and the ritual of pouring is part of the experience in a café like this one. Lambic-based beers range from sour and dry to fruity, so ask for advice if you would like something less tart, such as a fruit lambic.