MoVida

MoVida opened in 2003 in Hosier Lane, the street art laneway opposite Federation Square, and is credited with bringing the Spanish tapas bar format to Melbourne. It was founded by the chef Frank Camorra with his business partner Andy McMahon, and the group has since added MoVida Next Door, on the corner of Flinders Street and Hosier Lane, and Aqui, on Level 1 at 500 Bourke Street. The original, at 1 Hosier Lane, is still the one to visit first.

The food draws on Spanish food culture and seasonal produce. The dish everyone talks about is the anchoa, an anchovy on a wafer-thin crouton with smoked tomato sorbet, and it is worth ordering at least one. Other dishes that critics have singled out include croquetas with blood sausage, an empanadilla of minced partridge, a toasted brioche bocadillo with pâté and Pedro Ximénez foam, sherry-braised pork neck with clams, and churros with thick drinking chocolate. Treat these as a guide rather than a promise, since several come from reviews written over a number of years.

The room has booths along one side and a warmly lit bar of brick and wood, and the bar is the best place to sit if you are on your own or as a couple. Half of the bar seats are kept for walk-ins, so even when the restaurant is fully booked you can usually put your name down for a bar spot. For groups and for the dining room, book ahead online through OpenTable or by phone. Ordering freely from a long tapas list can add up quickly, so it pays to decide whether you want a light snack and a drink or a full dinner.

MoVida suits couples, small groups and solo diners who like eating at a counter. It works well before or after a walk through the city's lanes, and Hosier Lane's murals are right outside the door. Flinders Street Station is a short walk away along Flinders Street.

For reservations, call (03) 9663 3038 or email [email protected]; the office answers from Monday to Friday, 10am to 5:30pm. Check the website for current opening hours before you go, as they are listed separately for each venue.