Cumulus Inc.

Cumulus Inc. opened in 2008 at 45 Flinders Lane, in a turn-of-the-century building from the period when the lane was the centre of Melbourne's rag trade. It is one of the restaurants of the chef Andrew McConnell, credited by Gourmet Traveller to McConnell and Sam Cheetham, and is the older sibling of Supernormal further along the lane. It is now well into its second decade.

The format is an all-day diner. Large windows look out over the lane, and the room runs from breakfast through lunch to late dinner, with a bar and a licence. The kitchen describes its menu as seasonal and focused on Victorian produce. Dishes noted by critics have included tuna tartare, buffalo ricotta gnocchi, Jerusalem artichokes with Parmesan custard, and roasted quince with hot cross bun ice cream, though the menu changes through the year, so treat these as an indication of style rather than a fixed list. The wine list is long and has been described as both impressive and exhaustive.

The official website says the restaurant is open seven days from noon, while guide listings have also recorded a breakfast service from early morning on weekdays and from 8am at weekends; check the website for the current timetable before planning a breakfast visit. Walk-ins are always welcome, and online reservations are taken through SevenRooms. That flexibility makes Cumulus Inc. a good choice for solo travellers and couples who want a proper meal without booking weeks ahead, as well as for a long lunch with friends.

Prices sit in the upper-middle range for the city, with a spread of entrées, mains and desserts. For groups, contact the restaurant in advance on +61 3 9650 1445, since larger tables have traditionally needed a booking.

Flinders Lane runs parallel to Flinders Street, so Cumulus Inc. is within walking distance of Federation Square and Hosier Lane and pairs well with an afternoon in the city's lanes. For anyone comparing McConnell's two Flinders Lane restaurants, Cumulus Inc. is the all-day option built on Victorian produce and Supernormal the pan-Asian one, so choosing between them is mostly a question of what you feel like eating.