Qasr Al Hosn

Qasr Al Hosn is where the story of Abu Dhabi as a city begins. The site started life in 1761 as a watchtower built to protect the settlement's only freshwater well, and in 1793 the ruler Shakhbut bin Dhiyab Al Nahyan expanded it into a small fort that became the permanent home of the ruling family. The building took its present shape in an extension of the 1930s, paid for partly by revenue from the first oil concession, and it remained the ruler's palace and the seat of government until 1966.

After that it was left behind by a city growing rapidly around it, and it was only after a conservation and restoration project lasting about a decade that the fort reopened to the public in 2018. Today it works as a museum, with displays of objects and photographs that trace the history of the town, its ruling family and daily life before oil, along with weapons used across the region over the centuries. Walking through it, you get a sense of how small the settlement was before the modern city grew up around it.

The fort is the centrepiece of a wider heritage district. Alongside it stand the building of the National Consultative Council, the Cultural Foundation and the House of Artisans, where Emirati crafts are demonstrated and taught. Look out for sadu weaving, khoos palm-frond work and talli embroidery, and check the programme for workshops. Each year the grounds also host the Al Hosn Festival, an 11-day celebration of music, dance and heritage when some normally closed areas of the fort open up.

This is one of the best places in the city to understand Emirati culture, and it works well for families, history enthusiasts and anyone who wants a counterpoint to the modern landmarks. Allow one and a half to two hours to see the fort and the House of Artisans, longer if you combine it with a visit to the Cultural Foundation. Opening hours and ticketing can change, so check them before you go. Modest clothing is sensible.

The complex lies in downtown Abu Dhabi, so it is easy to reach by taxi from anywhere on the island, and after your visit you can walk through the surrounding streets or head to the Corniche, a short drive away. Late afternoon is a pleasant time to see the white walls in softer light.