Loy La Long

Loy La Long is a small guesthouse in a teak house perched above the Chao Phraya River, tucked away inside the grounds of Wat Pathum Khongkha, an old temple at the edge of Chinatown. The house has stood over the water for around 30 years, and its wide wooden terraces wrap round both floors, so guests spend much of their time watching ferries, barges and long-tail boats pass by. The name loosely suggests floating, and the atmosphere is unhurried and homely, a world away from the traffic of Yaowarat a few streets away.

There are just six rooms, each named after a colour. Green and Black are river-view suites, White is a duplex family room for up to four people, Blue is a double with a river view, Orange is a single river-view room, and Red is a classic double. Rooms are simple but characterful, with wooden floors and individual decoration, and rooms range from 14 to 38 square metres. Breakfast is included, and a mini restaurant serves guests only. The riverside living room and verandas on both floors are shared, and the fridge is always open for guests.

Check-in is at 14:00 and check-out at noon, and early arrivals are welcome to use the shared areas while they wait. Bookings require a deposit of the full value of the stay, and cancellations made less than 45 days ahead lose the deposit, so this is a place to book once your plans are firm. The guesthouse can arrange an airport taxi for a set fee. Extra beds are available, free for children under eight.

Loy La Long suits couples, solo travellers and small families who want a memorable, personal stay by the river rather than hotel facilities; there is no pool or gym. Expect stairs and an old wooden building. Rates are mid-range, with lower rates published on the website for some periods.

The guesthouse is at 1620/2 Songwat Road. From the Chao Phraya Express Boat, get off at Ratchawong Pier (N5) and turn right along Songwat Road, or get off at Marine Department Pier (N4) and walk via Talat Noi. Songwat Road's warehouses, cafés and street art, the Talat Noi riverside quarter and Yaowarat's food stalls are all on the doorstep.