Kampong Gelam & Haji Lane

Kampong Gelam, also spelt Kampong Glam, is one of Singapore's oldest urban quarters and the historic centre of its Malay and Muslim communities. In the 19th century, it was the seat of the Malay royal family and a hub for traders and pilgrims, and its grid of streets still has the low shophouses, mosque and textile shops of that era. Today, the conserved buildings also hold independent boutiques, design studios, cafés, restaurants and bars, which makes it one of the city's most enjoyable areas to explore on foot.

Sultan Mosque is the landmark at its centre. The present building, with its large golden dome, dates from the late 1920s and early 1930s, and the view of it framed by the palm trees and shophouses of Bussorah Street is the classic photograph of the area. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times, provided they dress modestly. Haji Lane, a narrow lane of brightly painted shophouses, is known for its murals, small fashion and gift shops and lively bars. Arab Street remains the place for fabrics, rugs and baskets, while Baghdad Street and Kandahar Street have restaurants serving Malay, Middle Eastern and Turkish food.

The best way to see Kampong Gelam is to wander slowly for a couple of hours. Late afternoon into evening is the liveliest time, when the heat drops, the shops are still open and the bars and restaurants start to fill. During the fasting month of Ramadan, the area hosts evening food stalls and is especially busy after sunset. Weekday mornings are much calmer, a good time for photographs, though some boutiques open late.

The area suits couples, groups of friends and anyone interested in heritage, shopping or food. It is free to explore and fairly compact, with mostly flat streets, though the five-foot ways in front of the shophouses can have steps. Dress respectfully if you plan to visit the mosque, and avoid Friday midday prayers.

Bugis MRT station is a short walk from Arab Street and Haji Lane, and Nicoll Highway station is also nearby. For a meal, Zam Zam, opposite the mosque on North Bridge Road, has served murtabak since 1908, and Atlas, the Art Deco gin bar in Parkview Square, is a few minutes away for an evening drink. Bugis Street market and the Little India quarter are both within easy reach.