Souq Waqif

Souq Waqif is the old commercial heart of Doha and the place most visitors return to in the evening. A market has stood here for at least a century, near the dry bed of Wadi Musheireb, and its name, roughly the standing market, recalls traders who stood at the gates to show their goods. Much of the old structure was destroyed by fire in 2003, and a government restoration between 2006 and 2008 rebuilt the souq in a traditional style around its narrow lanes.

Today the souq is a mix of working market and visitor quarter. Lanes are given over to spices, traditional clothing, textiles, handicrafts and souvenirs, while the women's section sells perfumes, traditional dress and gold jewellery. There are pet stalls, the 980-seat Al Rayyan Theatre, and a string of restaurants and cafés with outdoor tables where people sit for hours over tea, food and shisha. The Bismillah Hotel, said to be the first hotel to open in Qatar in the early 1900s, still stands in the souq with its tiled balconies.

Do not miss the Falcon Souq, which has its own entrance between Al Asmakh and Al Ahmed streets, marked by a gilded plaque. Shops here sell falcons and falconry kit such as hoods, gloves, perches and lures, and you can see the birds up close and, with the shopkeeper's supervision, pose with one on your arm. If you are lucky you may catch a public auction. The Falcon Souq opens 9am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm on weekdays and in the evening only on Friday, and next to it is an air-conditioned falcon hospital where falconers bring their birds for treatment.

Entry to the souq is free and it suits everyone, from families to solo travellers and couples. The best time to go is after sunset, when the lanes fill with residents and visitors and the temperature drops; note that the Falcon Souq closes between 1pm and 4pm. Bargaining is normal in many shops, so agree a price before you buy, and dress modestly as this is a traditional area.

The northern edge of the souq is only about 200 metres from the waterfront, with Abdullah Bin Jassim Street and the Corniche road in between, so it is easy to combine with a walk along the Corniche or a visit to the Museum of Islamic Art. Msheireb Museums and Msheireb Downtown Doha are a short walk to the west. Allow at least two hours, and come hungry.