Restaurant
Fakhreldin
An elegant Levantine restaurant in a restored Jabal Amman villa, open since 1997 and known for its kibbeh, mezze and attentive, old-school hospitality.
Downtown Amman's famous open-air falafel and hummus house, a no-frills institution where locals, families and visiting dignitaries share the same plastic tables.
Good to know
Hashem is the most famous cheap meal in Amman and a rite of passage for visitors to Downtown. The family behind it traces its story to 1910, when Saber Al-Turk opened Al-Kamal, a restaurant serving popular food in Jaffa, helped by his eldest son Hashem, after whom the Amman restaurant is named. The Downtown branch has been feeding the city for around half a century, and it has welcomed dignitaries from around the world as well as generations of local families.
The setting is simple and casual, with a mix of covered and open-air tables on Al-Amir Mohammad Street, opposite the Cliff Hotel. The food is the classic Levantine breakfast spread that Ammanis eat at any hour: falafel, hummus and ful, a dish of stewed fava beans, with bread. The menu also includes fatteh, sandwiches, fried dishes and the restaurant's own pastry, and it is known for being largely vegetarian, which makes it an easy choice for people who do not eat meat.
Hashem suits everyone, from backpackers to families and curious food lovers, and it is one of the best places to see Amman at its most relaxed. Jordan's tourism board lists it among the city's oldest restaurants, and it appears on almost every food guide to Downtown, so do not be surprised to share the space with other visitors as well as locals. Meals are quick and inexpensive, and it is a good choice for breakfast before a morning at the Citadel or the Roman Theatre, or for a late supper, as it keeps very long hours.
Practical tips: order a selection to share, use the bread to scoop the hummus and ful, and leave room for something sweet at Habibah, around the corner. Cash is the simplest way to pay. The family business has grown well beyond Amman, with branches in Saudi Arabia, Qatar, the United Arab Emirates and the United States, but this Downtown original is the one with the atmosphere.
The restaurant is in the heart of Downtown, a few minutes' walk from the Grand Husseini Mosque, King Faisal Street and the souks. The Roman Theatre is within walking distance, and the Citadel sits on the hill above, so Hashem fits easily into a day exploring the old centre on foot.
Falafel, hummus, ful, fatteh and fried dishes, with bread, vegetables and tea.
No, it is one of the cheapest and best-known meals in Amman.
Yes, the menu is largely vegetarian.
On Al-Amir Mohammad Street in Downtown, opposite the Cliff Hotel.
No, it is a casual walk-in restaurant.
Breakfast before sightseeing or a late supper are both good times.
Habibah Sweets, the Grand Husseini Mosque, the souks and the Roman Theatre.
+962 6 463 6440.
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Attraction
Amman's oldest inhabited hill, crowned by the Roman Temple of Hercules, an Umayyad palace, a Byzantine church and wide views over Downtown.
Tour operator
A cook-and-dine experience in a family home in Jabal al-Weibdeh, where local hajjehs teach guests to prepare and share a seasonal Arabic meal.
Hotel
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