Roman Theatre

The Roman Theatre is the grandest surviving monument of Philadelphia, as Amman was known in the Roman period. It was cut into the side of a hill in the second century AD, and a Greek inscription records that it was built in honour of the Emperor Antoninus Pius, who reigned from AD 138 to 161. The theatre faces north, a choice that kept the sun out of spectators' eyes, and it can hold about 6,000 people on its steep tiers of stone seating.

Climbing to the top rows is the main thing to do here. The view takes in the stage, the Hashemite Plaza and the houses stacked on the hills of Downtown, with the Citadel rising opposite. The theatre is not just a ruin: it continues to host cultural events, including concerts during the Al-Balad Music Festival and parts of the Amman International Book Fair.

Two small museums occupy the rooms behind the side entrances, known as the paradoi. The Jordan Museum of Popular Traditions is on one side, and on the other is the Jordan Folklore Museum, opened in 1971, which collects Jordanian and Palestinian folklore and traditional costume. Both are quick visits and worth looking into while you are here. Across the plaza to the east is the much smaller Odeon, which seats up to 500 and is also used for events.

The theatre suits all ages, though the upper tiers are very steep, so take care with children and on the way down. Allow an hour including the museums. Mornings and late afternoons are cooler and more comfortable for the climb, and wearing shoes with a good grip helps on the worn stone steps. If you enjoy music, check local listings for concerts, as hearing a performance here is a memorable way to see the theatre in use.

The theatre is in the heart of Downtown, a short walk from King Faisal Street, the Grand Husseini Mosque and the souks. The Nymphaeum, a Roman public fountain from AD 191, is a few minutes away, and the Citadel sits on the hill directly above, so the three Roman sites combine easily into one morning.