Sugoi Niboshi Ramen Nagi Golden Gai

Nagi's original Golden Gai shop is a cramped upstairs counter in the middle of Shinjuku's famous alley of bars, and its ramen is built on niboshi, dried sardines, which give the soup a punchy, savoury and slightly bitter depth. The company says it buys more than five tonnes of niboshi a month across its shops, and the result is a bowl that divides opinion but has a loyal following.

It is open 24 hours, so it works equally well as a late-night refuel after Golden Gai's bars or as a quieter mid-afternoon stop. Seats are few and the stairs are steep, so expect a short queue on the street at busy times. The fish flavour is strong; if you are unsure, start with the standard bowl rather than the richest options. Shinjuku-sanchome and Shinjuku stations are within walking distance.