Den

Den is the restaurant of chef Zaiyu Hasegawa, who takes the structure of kaiseki, the seasonal multi-course meal of Japanese haute cuisine, and makes it relaxed, witty and personal. The restaurant began in Jimbocho, which is why its website still carries that name, and later moved to Jingumae, where it sits inside the Japan Institute of Architects' building. The mood is closer to a dinner party than a hushed temple of cuisine, and the team's warmth towards guests is as much a part of its reputation as the food.

There is a single set menu each evening, built around seasonal Japanese ingredients and served over many small courses. Hasegawa is known for playful touches that make diners smile, including dishes that reference childhood food or Western fast food, alongside very precise cooking of vegetables, fish and rice in the kaiseki tradition. The staff are known for small personal gestures that make guests feel welcome. Sake and wine are available to accompany the meal.

Getting a table is the challenge. Bookings are taken by phone only, from 12:00 to 17:00 Monday to Saturday, up to two months ahead and for parties of up to four. The restaurant says it does not accept reservations made online, through third parties or through agencies, and a booking is complete only when you receive a confirmation email. Dinner starts between 18:00 and 20:00. Cancellations or reductions in party size on the day are charged at the full price of the set menu, and changes need to be made at least two days ahead.

Den suits food lovers who want a memorable, relaxed meal rather than strict formality, and it is a good choice for a celebration with friends. Declare all allergies and intolerances when you book; the restaurant warns it cannot guarantee to meet every dietary request. It is closed on Sundays and on extra dates listed on the official site, including long breaks around the New Year.

The entrance is on Gaien-nishi-dori, inside the JIA Architect House Hall at 2-3-18 Jingumae, about ten minutes' walk from Gaienmae Station on the Ginza Line. The Watari-um contemporary art museum and the ginkgo avenue of Meiji Jingu Gaien are both close by.