Komagata Dozeu

Komagata Dozeu has been serving dojo, small freshwater loach, since 1801, and a meal here is a direct taste of the everyday food of old Edo. Loach were once caught in the rice paddies and rivers around the city and were valued as cheap, nourishing food, especially in summer. The restaurant has kept that tradition alive for more than two centuries near the banks of the Sumida River, and its old-fashioned building, with diners sitting on tatami at long low boards, is part of the experience.

The signature dish is dozeunabe: whole loach arrive at the table in a shallow iron pan, simmered in a sweet soy-based broth over a small charcoal brazier, and you heap chopped spring onion on top and season it with sansho pepper or shichimi spice. Dozeujiru, a miso soup with loach, is a gentler introduction for the uncertain. The menu also includes grilled and fried loach, simple vegetable side dishes and rice, and many diners pair the meal with warm sake.

Hours are 11:00 to 20:30, with last orders at 20:00. Closure dates vary through the year and are published on the restaurant's website, so check before you go or book a table online through the reservation link on the official site. Lunchtime is the most popular time for a slow meal, and the room can be busy at weekends. Prices are moderate for such a historic restaurant.

It suits adventurous eaters, history lovers and anyone wanting to try a dish they will not find in most guidebooks' lists. The flavours are mild and slightly sweet, and the small fish are eaten whole, bones and all, so it is worth knowing that before you order. Sitting on the floor is part of the traditional experience, which may not suit everyone, so ask about table seating if needed.

The restaurant is at 1-7-12 Komagata in Taito-ku, about two minutes' walk from Asakusa Station on the Toei Asakusa Line and a little further from the Ginza Line exits. It makes an easy lunch stop after Senso-ji, and the Sumida River promenade and the Komagata bridge are just beyond the door.