Tobia Tej House

Tobia Tej House is one of the easiest places in Addis Ababa to try tej, Ethiopia's honey wine, in its traditional setting. A tej bet, or honey wine house, is the Ethiopian equivalent of a local pub, and this one takes its name from its owner, Tobia Mamuye. It has been operating since the late 1990s, and its painted walls, showing people drinking tej, make it clear what the house is about. Ethiopian Airlines' Selamta magazine singles it out as a place where solo visitors feel welcome.

Tej is made by fermenting honey and water with the leaves or twigs of gesho, a local buckthorn that adds bitterness, rather like hops in beer. It is served in a berele, a small glass flask with a round body and narrow neck, and comes in degrees of sweetness and strength. Newly made tej tends to be sweeter and lighter, while older batches are drier and stronger. It slips down easily, so pace yourself and ask staff which style they are serving that day.

Food matters here too, and the Arrival Guides city guide picks out both the breezy garden and the quality of the cooking. The house is known for good kitfo, the minced beef dish that can be eaten raw, lightly warmed or cooked, and it makes an ideal partner for tej. There is a menu in English, which takes the guesswork out of ordering, and the garden seating catches the breeze on warm afternoons and evenings.

A visit suits travellers who want an informal, local drinking experience rather than a hotel bar, and it pairs well with an early evening before a show elsewhere. Go with a friend or on your own, and if you prefer not to drink alcohol, ask what soft drinks are available.

The tej house is off Haile Gebreselassie Road, behind the Axum Hotel, so give drivers the hotel as a landmark. After a round or two, the city's other musical traditions are within reach: Fendika for azmari singers and dancers, or the Africa Jazz Club at the Ghion Hotel on a Thursday. Tej houses can be especially lively around holidays such as Enkutatash, the Ethiopian New Year in September.